The Way of Food

Back in the Big Easy, Back to Bayona

2011-10-07T10:00:00.004-04:00

I'm not sure why I'm obsessed with Bayona and its Executive Chef/Owner Susan Spicer. Obviously, the food is the dominant reason, but there's something else that I haven't been able to label, yet. Last evening, I visited one of my favorite restaurants in the country and was, of course, not disappointed. The quaint atmosphere, the excellent service, and the overall charm of the small establishment just a block away from the debauchery of Bourbon Street are some of Bayona's most seductive qualities. Then, there's the food; the Susan Spicer-created menus feature local and seasonal ingredients and highlight some of the regions signature preparations as well as cuisines.

There is a "classics" menu alongside the specials, and these menus make it exceptionally difficult to narrow one's choices. During my last visit a couple of years ago, I had lunch here and enjoyed one of the "classics": smoked duck, cashew-peanut butter and pepper jelly sandwich (one of their most favorite dishes). The seemingly simple sandwich highlights Spicer's creativity and discerning palate. Duck and peanut butter, on the surface, sound like a questionable pairing, but the richness of the duck and the heartiness of the peanut butter make for a decadent combination. This reinvention of the PB & J is on an entirely different scale.

Because I'm somehow tethered to the "classics" menu, I couldn't avoid it entirely even though the evening's starter specials were all exceptionally tempting: veal sweetbreads, a quail salad, and cream of celery soup, for example. I began with the cream of garlic soup, which was rich, even meaty in flavor. The intensity of the garlic was simultaneously foregrounded while smoothed with stock and cream. Simply, it was one of those bowls of soup of which you want an entire pot, a spoon, a couch, and a great movie. It was an exemplar of Southern comfort food.

Selecting the entree was even more of a challenge. One "classics" dish that tempted me, simply because of the sandwich from my last visit, was the grilled duck breast with pepper jelly sauce and wild rice. But, the specials, including the hanger steak with béarnaise sauce, were exceptionally alluring. I finally settled on the sautéed snapper with asparagus-watercress velouté, lentils vinaigrette, and crispy leeks. The plating was simple but elegant and colorful, and the fish was prepared perfectly, flaky with a golden, crisp sear. The velouté was a new experience for me, and it's earthy flavors paired exceptionally well with the light fish. Although it's October (warm here but not back home), this dish reminded me of summer. I sighed with fondness and satisfaction as the server removed my plate.

Dessert was equally as challenging to choose. However, my eye immediately went to the chocolate bourbon panna cotta with raspberries and mint coulis. My Bayona martini (Hendricks with a splash of rose water) complimented the creamy dark chocolate custard wonderfully, and both were a wonderful coda to the meal.

As I walked towards my hotel & towards Bourbon Street, I tried desperately to figure out what it was about Bayona that had me at "We have some wonderful specials this evening." Yes, the food and Spicer's creativity...or her use of local & season ingredients...or the simplicity of her dishes that also highlight a depth of knowledge and desire to experiment a little. One day I'll figure it out; it just means that I have to keep coming back.

Writing about Writing about Writing

2011-02-22T10:06:00.002-05:00

This post is more therapeutic for me than anything. I'm moving into the second half of my second chapter of my dissertation, and the first half on M.F.K. Fisher seems unfinished; it's missing something. I look forward to exploring Julia Child and how her time in France influenced how she developed a culinary practice that shaped American cuisine; however, I feel my time with Fisher is not over. (Well, I never want it to be over, really. I could read her work over and over again, always discovering a new, beautiful turn of phrase, etc.) Fisher's work is prolific, and I focused on one text specifically for this chapter; yet, I feel like I could add more. Such is the life of an English grad student, I suppose - always thinking there's just one more text we could include to make our work more relevant or valuable.

This 'unfinishedness' reminds of me of cooking and beer, actually. Often, we say of a dish, "It needs something." It may be a pinch or two of salt, a little pepper, or a splash of red wine. These seemingly simple "fixes" make or break a dish. I forgot nutmeg in a bolognese sauce once, and it still haunts me to this day. With beer, we can't make those adjustments (unless we home brew), and as such, we end up disappointed. "It needed more hops to balance the malty-ness" or "The coffee notes overpowered the chocolate" in a stout, etc. This is where I'm at with that first part of the second chapter. However, unlike cooking or beer, I'm unclear about what is missing.

I teach my students the basics of writing; yet, I sit here, struggling. Granted, I'm engaged in a much more complex writing process than a five-page essay on James Baldwin's "Sonny's Blues." However, at the core, writing is writing, and the frustration and writer's block can occur in any writing process. Too bad unblocking the writing process doesn't require a pinch of salt or a splash of wine; I'd be much more comfortable with that. And, I suppose this is when I should use what I teach to help myself.

Baltimore Beer Week - Day 9 Preview

2010-10-15T09:20:00.004-04:00

We're coming to the end of Baltimore Beer Week (BBW), but the events seem to be getting bigger and more numerous. Last night, for example, Sam from Dogfish Head was at Morton's for a beer dinner and then at Alewife to show off 16 Dogfish Head beers.

Today's BBW events look promising. I'm looking out my living room windows and as the sun shines, I can't help but think that today is a great day for some beer. In the Fells Point area, Alexander's Tavern kicks off a three-day indoor block party, and Cat's Eye Pub is featuring Pennsylvania Lager. Max's has a host of events today, including east coast vs. west coast, global brewers one-offs, and a Saison du Buff menage a trois.

Just north of the city, Alonso's will play host to Boulder Beer with a "get your Mojo on" event, and their featured event is Blues, Brews, and BBQ with Oskar Blues beers on tap, including a firkin of dry hopped Dale's Pale Ale. TBonz welcomes Heavy Seas for a bacon and bombers event, continuing with their ten-day long Maryland beer tap takeover. Abbey Burger Bistro is featuring $3 Oskar Blues drafts, and they pitch this event as a destination for people heading to the Blues and Brews event at 8x10. Heavy Seas is sponsoring this featured event that will welcome some legendary blues artists, including Bobby Parker. Heavy Seas beers will be specially priced, and it's recommended that guests purchase tickets in advance.

In the Ellicott City/Columbia area, Judges Bench has two events tonight: exorcism tour and Flying Dog firkin Friday. Victoria Gastro Pub will host a hall of fame night, and they should post their draught list at some point this afternoon. And, Frisco's continues its BCS competition.

Once again, the event list is impressive, and my choices here are certainly not exhaustive. I'm looking forward to some of the events at Max's and swinging by Alewife to see what is left from last night's Dogfish Head festivities. I also would like to check out Alexander's Tavern's indoor block party. Regardless, I know today will be a great day for beer.

Baltimore Beer Week - Day 7 Recap & Day 8 Preview

2010-10-14T08:57:00.004-04:00

Yesterday, the Baltimore Beer Week (BBW) events were quite a success, based on the Facebook and Twitter messages throughout the evening. I swung by Max's for the Boulder tap takeover and Harpoon pint night. The selection of Boulder beers was impressive (no surprise when you're at Max's). Some highlights included Bourbon Coffee Flashback, Hazed & Infused, Obovoid, and Planet Porter.

I tried Mojo Risin (though I've had it before, just never on draught), Never Summer, and Sweaty Betty. In addition to the Boulder beers, I sampled Harpoon Oktoberfest, which was a featured cask, and The Bruery Autumn Maple. Boulder's Mojo Risin is one of my (many) favorite Imperial IPAs. Its 10% ABV limits extensive consumption, but the well-rounded hoppiness makes it a lovely beer to lazily enjoy. Never Summer and Sweaty Betty were new beers for me, and I enjoyed both. Never Summer Ale was a nicely balanced beer that poured a rich red color. The aroma is hops and the finish is somewhat bitter. The hops used are Nugget, Willamette, and Cascade, and the hops are crisp and clean. Overall, this winter seasonal beer was tasty. Sweaty Betty is a wheat beer and pours a lovely blonde (of course) color with some cloudiness. It's a light summer beer that would pair well with grilled summer vegetables or ceviche.

After the Boulder beers, I moved to try a sample of the Harpoon Oktoberfest, and I was not really impressed with this seasonal beer. I tend to lean towards the spicy, more complex fall beers, so this left a little to be desired. I ended the evening with The Bruery Autumn Maple, which was an impressive blend of spices (nutmeg, allspice, and cinnamon notes were certainly apparent), molasses, and maple syrup. I enjoyed it so much that I plan on trying to hunt this down as soon as possible (Honeygo Wines better have it!).

The events for Day 8 of BBW are, once again, many in number. Max's, not surprisingly, has a packed line up tonight: Victory cask night, "three great breweries under one roof" (Oskar Blues, Lagunitas, and Weyerbacher), and Pennsylvania beer trivia night. For me, the highlight event at Max's is the women and beer evening, which I cannot attend because of the late class that I teach. Women from local breweries and distribution companies will be discussing beer and will pair beer samples with cheese and chocolate. $10 for such a great event is deal.

Metropolitan is hosting a Victory beer breakfast with Joe Gold discussing the breweries beers, and later, they will have a Troegs cask night. TBonz will have a firkins and fried chicken evening featuring Heavy Seas and Flying Dog beers. Victoria Gastro Pub continues its great line up of BBW events with the elements themed evening (earth, wind, fire, and air). Some earth beers include Flying Dog In Heat Wheat, The Bruery Orchard White, Stone Oak Aged Arrogant Bastard, and Goose Island Bourbon County Stout; fire beers are Victory Hop Devil & Victory Scarlet Sunset, for example. Water beers include Heavy Seas Hang Ten & Smoke on the Water, and air beers are, for the moment, all Flying Dog beers (Single Hop, Double Dog, and Doggy Style).

Another event that I'm upset to miss is the Dogfish Head pairing dinner with Sam Calagione at Morton's. Not only do I love Dogfish Head beer, but I also enjoy Morton's steaks. Sam will then swing by Alewife to host a Dogfish Head evening with 16 beers on tap. Alewife will also have Marvin from Boulder Beer earlier in the evening and will have some great Boulder beers on tap. Some pint nights include Dogfish Head at Alonso's, Troegs at Baltimore Taphouse, Evolution at Mahaffey's, and Lagunitas at Elliot's Pour House.

It'll be difficult to decide where to go tonight given all of the fantastic options. But, those 16 Dogfish Head beers at Alewife are calling my name....

Baltimore Beer Week - Day 6 Recap & Day 7 Preview

2010-10-13T09:59:00.004-04:00

Day 6 of Baltimore Beer Week (BBW) offered some terrific options, but I chose to head over to Victoria Gastro Pub for the Mile High Club--a night of Colorado beers. The featured breweries were Oskar Blues, Boulder, Avery, and Great Divide. I did another flight and selected Avery Kaiser, Oskar Blues Gubna, Great Divide Espresso Oak Aged Imperial Stout, Boulder Mojo IPA, and Great Divide Hercules. I have had Gubna, Hercules, and Mojo before, but I was in the mood for some hoppy beers to pair with my delicious cheeseburger and duck fat fries.

Avery Kaiser is an imperial Octoberfest beer, and as my dining buddy said, "It was like a German beer gone good." This beer had a wonderful depth, a rich mix of malts, and a hint of hops underneath those lovely malts. The caramel color was inviting, and this beer simply reinforced my belief that Avery can do no wrong. I'm a big fan of many Great Divide beers and wanted to try the latest addition to their Yeti series. I typically do not order stouts but was intrigued by the Espresso Oak Aged Yeti. I could immediately tell the difference between the espresso in this beer and the coffee in other stouts, like the Victory Village. The Yeti was a fairly well-balanced stout---coffee, chocolate, oak, and some vanilla---with a small bitter finish. This was a great dessert beer, too. Overall, Mile High Club was a positive beer experience, and I hope to return to Victoria Gastro Pub for another event before BBW is over.

There is a great list of events for Day 7 of BBW. Mahaffey's is hosting a Heavy Seas flight of firkins; while Max's hosts two events: Boulder tap takeover and Harpoon pint night. Lagunitas will be the pint night beer at Alonso's, and TBonz will be serving a Troegs cask for beer and Baltimore trivia. Two other pint nights include Flying Dog at Frisco's and Oskar Blues at Baltimore Taphouse. The event at Victoria Gastro Pub tonight is Take a Trip Up I-95, which will feature beers from Harpoon, Brooklyn, Saranac, Southern Tier, Smuttynose, Allagash, and Otter Creek. One event that I was sad to miss was breakfast with Flying Dog's Brian Ahern at Metropolitan, which is going on as I type this. As BBW moves into its last few days, the events will be only get more numerous, and they will continue bringing the great beer.

Baltimore Beer Week - Day 6 Preview

2010-10-12T08:43:00.004-04:00

I took a break from Baltimore Beer Week (BBW) last night, but I do have a preview of today's events, of which there are (again) many. Alexander's is kicking off a three-day celebration of Victory, and the beers featured include Mad King Weisse, Hop Wallop, Rauch Weisse, Fest Bier, and Braumeister Pils. Koopers Tavern is teaming with Flying Dog for a day of burgers and beers, and Koopers' $3.50 burgers is reason to go by itself.

Judges Bench is hosting a judging of Troegs Javahead Stout, and three versions of this beer will be tasted: draft, year-old Javahead, and a firkin of Javahead Stout with vanilla beans. At nearby Victoria Gastro Pub, patrons can sample beers from the Mile High Club, aka Colorado beers. Breweries that will be featured are Boulder, Avery, Great Divide, and Oskar Blues, and I'm very much looking forward to that event. Alonso's is hosting two pint nights - Saranac and Harpoon.

Max's has a fantastic beer list for their 12 Percent Import Night, and Baltimore Taphouse is hosting two fun events: Heavy Seas It's the Greater Pumpkin and Lagunitas steal the glass. Jilly's in Pikesville is jumping into the BBW game by having a meet the brewer night with Flying Dog's Bob Malone. They will have four Flying Dog beers on tap.

There are certainly many more events happening today, but I selected those that I would really like to attend. Now, I just have to see if that will actually happen...

Baltimore Beer Week - Day 4 Recap & Day 5 Preview

2010-10-11T09:12:00.002-04:00

My recap of Baltimore Beer Week (BBW) Day 4 is fairly brief because I only attended one BBW event. However, the Heavy Seas Pyrate Cruise was a blast. This sold out event was limited to 50 people, and we had access to great Heavy Seas beer (Small Craft, Marzen, Pale Ale, and Loose Cannon). It was a perfect night to hit the water in Baltimore's Inner Harbor. I chatted with some of the area's beer bloggers (Beer Cruiser & Beer in Baltimore, for example). It seemed like a good time was had by all.

Today, there are some terrific BBW events going on all around the area. Victoria Gastro Pub is hosting an Octoberfest/Pumpkin beer night, and their beer list looks very promising (it's posted on their website). Little Havana will be holding a charity event to benefit a local animal organization and will feature Lagunitas beers. Alonso's is teaming up with Flying Dog for a Ravens' "Bitch Session"; although, there really isn't anything to bitch about regarding the Ravens win over Denver yesterday. Max's continues with its long line up of events, including a Pyrate Pub Crawl and a Troegs tasting (Elliot's Pour House is also having a Troegs tasting). And, Judges Bench will be hosting an Evolution tasting.

I would love to attend one of these events, but my work load is rather demanding this week. I may have to work extra hard to make it to at least one today.

Baltimore Beer Week - Day 3 Recap & Day 4 Preview

2010-10-10T09:47:00.003-04:00

Day 3 of Baltimore Beer Week (BBW) was low key for me but exciting nonetheless. I visited Grand Cru for the Victory Beer Ingredients Seminar with Joe Gold (not only a Victory rep but the founder of BBW). Five Victory beers were examined: Pils, Festbier, Hop Devil, Weizen Bock, and Storm King. Gold explained the brewing process and allowed the handful of guests to taste and smell the malts and hops in each beer. He emphasized that Victory Brewing Company does not use a proprietary yeast but brews to the style instead.

Following the seminar, I had a chance to chat with Gold about BBW and how he came to develop it as well as how it has grown from its first year to this year (year number two). Finally, Gold explained how the three breweries that collaborated on Saison Du Buff (Victory, Dogfish Head, and Stone) each put their own spin on the same recipe. Being one of my favorite beers, I really enjoyed learning about how each version was brewed. Gold was funny, personable, and excited about beer, and I enjoyed the time we had to discuss beer.

Later, we visited the opening of Alonso's upstairs bar, which featured a great selection of Evolution beers. I went with a good "go-to" IPA to start--Lot #3, and then I was compelled to try Jacques Au Lantern, which was poured from a pumpkin. This pumpkin beer is both spicy and light; I certainly liked this pumpkin ale. Hopefully, I'll be able to find this beer in my local liquor store (I suspect Honeygo Wines has it on its shelves!). With dinner, I continued my Victory theme from earlier, and I tried Scarlet Sunset, which was a great red ale. My dining buddy had the Victory Village, which is a collaboration beer with a local coffee roaster. This ale was delicious and well-balanced.

Today, the BBW events are, once again, numerous. The Stillwater Water Ales event at Max's just started (10 a.m.), and Max's will be hosting some great events today, including Founders & Firkins this afternoon. Guests will be able to taste some great Maryland beers and chat with the brewers. Alonso's is hosting a Heavy Seas brunch, featuring a two course brunch and guests can keep the glassware. T-Bonz is pitting a Baltimore beer against a Denver beer in honor of the Ravens-Broncos game this afternoon; the Raven Lager will take on Tommy Knocker Imperial Nut Brown.

Following the brunch, Alonso's will welcome Maryland's new kid of the beer block - Long Trail Brewing Company from Vermont. Victoria Gastro Pub is celebrating German beers today by placing ten of the country's tastiest beers on their taps. Tonight, Heavy Seas is hosting a Pyrate Beer Cruise. Tickets needed to be purchased in advance (which we did), and Heavy Seas beers will be shared among the guests of this sold out event. And, rumor has it that there might be some special surprises for those aboard the Urban Pirate ship.

I'm looking forward to today's beer events. I'll be missing the early afternoon events because I have a ragu alla bolognese sauce on my stove right now.

Baltimore Beer Week - Day 2 Recap & Day 3 Preview

2010-10-09T09:30:00.003-04:00

Last night, I was able to attend two great Baltimore Beer Week (BBW) events: Dogfight II at Victoria Gastro Pub and Heavy Seas Firkin Friday at Judges Bench. Victoria Gastro Pub offers a terrific tasting option: the beer fight. With three fantastic featured breweries for Dogfight II - Dogfish Head, Brew Dog, and Flying Dog - the choices were extensive, overwhelming even. I narrowed it down to Brew Dog Zeitgeist and 5 AM Saint, Dogfish Head Theobroma, and Flying Dog Single Hop Imperial IPA and Dogtoberfest. I have enjoyed Theobroma before, but I felt compelled to have once again. I was eager to try the latest offering from Flying Dog - the Single Hop, which is their latest one-off with Simcoe hops. The aroma and finish were deliciously hoppy and had a bite. BrewDog's Zeitgeist is a low ABV black lager. It was light and clean, and for a lager, I actually enjoyed it.

Later, at Judges Bench, we arrived in between casks; we missed the Oak Cask Loose Cannon, unfortunately. However, we squeezed into the crowded neighborhood bar just in time to get some newly tapped Winter Storm. This ESB seasonal pours a rich maple color, and the aroma is smoked malty and nutty. I certainly enjoyed it; though it isn't my favorite ESB. We also had a chance to have Greater Pumpkin, which is a wonderful pumpkin beer. And, we were able to meet Kelly from Heavy Seas, who is a wonderful rep. We hope to see her on the Pyrate Cruise this Sunday.

Today, the number of BBW events seems more than overwhelming. The Maryland Octoberfest is perhaps the largest beer-related event. I plan on attending the Victory Beer Ingredients Seminar at Grand Cru in the early afternoon. Other fun events include a blind beer tasting at Judges Bench, which will feature "prehistoric fizzlagers." There are a number of free tastings today as well, at Wine Source, Shawan Liquors, Perfect Pour, and Dawson's Liquors, for example. Victoria Gastro Pub is hosting a California Dreamin' evening, featuring some of California's best breweries (i.e. 21st Amendment, Stone, Bear Republic, and Lagunitas). Max's has a long line up of events, including a West Coast v. West Coast and Creators of World Class Ales. Finally, Alonso's is hosting a grand opening event for their new upstairs bar and will feature Evolution beer.

A lot of events to choose from and so little time....

Baltimore Beer Week - Day 2

2010-10-08T08:47:00.004-04:00

The big week is underway and a number of events are occurring today (Friday, October 8). I've selected a few that look interesting and fun. Frisco Grille starts its Beer Championship Series (BCS) tonight, and this event, which lasts through Baltimore Beer Week (BBW), pits two breweries against each other each night. Eight breweries are competing to see whose 1/6 barrel kicks first, and Flying Dog, Heavy Seas, Dogfish, Harpoon, Oskar Blues, Troegs, Southampton, and Bear Republic are those breweries ready to battle it out.

Over at Max's, from 3:00 to 5:00 p.m., the newest brewery in Maryland, Vermont-based Long Trail, will be the featured brewery. The Long Trail brewers are bringing a great selection of their beers to showcase, including, Long Trail Ale, Blackberry Wheat , Autumn Ale, Double Bag, IPA, Pale Ale, and Imperial Porter.

The crew from Heavy Seas will be swinging by Judges Bench to host a Firkin Friday event, where they will take over the taps as well as feature a rare Oak Cask Loose Cannon and a cask of Winter Storm. Across town, Alonso's is hosting a Victory pint night. But, perhaps the event to which I most looking forward is Dogfight II at Victoria Gastro Pub. Flying Dog, Dogfish Head, and Brew Dog will go head to head it this battle.

In theory, I'd like to hit up all of these events, but I'm not sure that will possible. This is where a transporter would be handy.

Baltimore Beer Week - Day 1

2010-10-07T16:41:00.003-04:00

Today is the long anticipated start of Baltimore Beer Week (BBW). Tonight's line up of events is simply a preview of the over 300 beer-related events to come in the next ten days. The official kick-off is sold out, and if I didn't have to work, I would have purchased tickets the moment that they went on sale. Tonight, some of the events that I think look promising include the start of a two-day Troegs event at Alexander's Tavern, Max's opening night & beer can trivia, a Flying Dog firkin at Metropolitan's, Clipper City pint night at Elliot's Pour House, and the start of a full ten days of Maryland beer on tap at T-Bonz.

The BBW has very user-friendly event listing, so start planning!

Chili, Beer, and Fall

2010-10-06T11:22:00.003-04:00

Check out my first guest post on Ladies of Craft Beer! I'm excited to be a part of this website!

Baltimore Beer Week - Only 5 Days Away!

2010-10-02T15:04:00.009-04:00

Baltimore Beer Week (BBW) is just around the corner, and the anticipation is growing. More and more events are being added to the already extensive agenda. BBW looks to be like an exciting event celebrating craft beer in one of the nation's great beer cities.

The new kid on the block, Alewife, made its presence known last night with the Stone Brewing Company 40 Tap Takeover Event. The evening was nothing short of epic. Stone and its CEO Greg Koch (pictured left) hit the road for a seven day, seven city tour that launched in Baltimore. Alewife cleared its beer slate, and Stone took over every one of the establishment's taps. VIPs were able to get in an hour early and receive a tour t-shirt as well as some face time with Koch. The draught list was a Stone beer lovers dream, featuring rare beers and brewery favorites.

Guests received ten tokens, which allowed for ten 5 ounce tastings. A small buffet was available in the upstairs bar area, and each food item was three tokens. I chose to save all of my tokens for beer (of course!). From the list, I selected the following beers:

07.07.07 Vertical Epic Ale Aged in Red Wine Barrels
09.09.09 Vertical Epic Ale
IRS 10th Anniversary Special Blend
Double Dry Hopped 14th Anniversary Emperial IPA
14th Anniversary Emperial IPA
Smoked Porter with Vanilla Bean
Smoked Porter with Chipotle Pepper
Double Bastard Ale (2005)
Ballast Point/Firestone Walker/Stone El Camino [Un] Real Black Ale
Double Dry Hopped Ruination IPA
Double Dry Hopped IPA

It is very difficult to select one or two highlights from this list because they are all fantastic beers. However, I feel compelled to discuss at least two of them. First up, the Smoked Porter with Chipotle Pepper. I love experimental beers like this, and Stone, like a handful of other American breweries, do these beers well. My only point of comparison is Rogue's Chipotle Ale, which has a very strong pepper front and finish. The hops bring out the spiciness, which seems to overpower the overall flavor of the beer. However, Stone's chipotle porter does not suffer the same fate; the hops are more balanced with malt, so the chipotle flavor is subtle and pleasant. I had this beer with dinner later in the evening because I couldn't get enough of it.

Second, I have to talk about the Double Dry Hopped (DDH) Ruination. The original version of this beer is absolutely wonderful, but the more robust hop flavors make this DDH beer spectacular. As I've mentioned in prior posts, I love hops, and this beer satisfied my hop craving more than nearly every beer that I have ever had. I was actually stunned at how balanced, flavorful, and dynamic this IPA was. I only wished that I would not have saved it to the end because I would have expended more than one token on this beer.

Alewife didn't disappoint; it is a great addition to the Baltimore beer scene. With two bars, a good menu, and a beautiful space, it is a great change for those of us who frequent Max's or Victoria Gastro Pub. Alewife is right across the street from the Hippodrome theater, so they will get some good traffic, and it is one of those places that you have to make an effort to visit (as opposed to Max's where you can roam around Fells Point and have other establishments from which to choose). I look forward to visiting again, perhaps during BBW for the Dogfish Head event on October 14.

Baltimore Beer Week--Tenative Schedule

2010-09-24T14:07:00.006-04:00

Trying to decide what events to attend during Baltimore Beer Week has proved quite challenging. I've begun to narrow them down....well, sort of. I know that even up until Thursday, October 7, I will continue to find new events to add to the already long list. I've decided to post the tentative itinerary simply to demonstrate how difficult this small project has been. More to come about Baltimore Beer Week.

Baltimore Beer Week - Max's Taphouse

2010-09-22T13:46:00.004-04:00

Max's Taphouse just posted its events for the quickly approaching Baltimore Beer Week. Unsurprisingly, the list is quite impressive. Some highlights include Beer Can Trivia on Thursday, October 7 from 9:00 to 11:00 p.m. Canned craft beer is one of the newer trends in the industry, and Oskar Blues and 21st Amendment, leaders in the canned craft beer movement, will be two of the breweries featured this evening.

On Friday, October 8 from 3:00 - 5:00 p.m., Max's will host an East Coast vs. West Coast showdown; Sierra Nevada and Brooklyn Brewery will be the two breweries going head-to-head. Beer highlights include Sierra Nevada Bigfoot 199 and 30th Anniversary Jack & Ken and Brooklyn Detonation and Black Chocolate Stout.

In a similar vein, the following night will see two West Coast breweries battle it out: The Bruery and Stone. A few of the beer highlights for this event include The Bruery's Trade Winds Triple, Mischief, and Autumn Maple and Stone's Sublimely Self Righteous Ale and Cali-Belgique IPA. This event will be from 5:00 - 7:00 p.m.

Immediately following this West Coast clash, the Creators of World Class Ales event begins, featuring Dogfish Head Bitches Brew and Namaste and bottled beer from Williams Brothers and Heather Ales, among others.

On Sunday, October 10 from 3:00 - 5:00 p.m., Max's will celebrate Maryland beers with casks from Heavy Seas, Brewers' Art, Stillwater Ales, Whitemarsh Brewing, Duclaw Brewing, and Olivers Ales.

Later in the week on Wednesday night, Boulder Beer will put 20 of its beers on tap. Among those that will be available from 5:00 to 7:00 p.m. are Mojo, Hazed and Infused, Never Summer, Obovoid, Mojo Risin, and Single Track.

Victory will take over Max's the following evening with a number of casks and draught beers available, such as Pursuit w/ Simcoe Hops, Hop Devil, Hop Wallop
Uncle Teddys Bitter (casks), and draughts include Prima Pils, Saison Du Buff, and Village.

Following the Victory celebration (yes, that was intentional), Oskar Blues, Lagunitas, and Weyerbacher will take over. A cask of Dale's Pale Ale will be tapped and draughts of Ten Fidy and Oskar's Barleywine will also be available. Weyerbacher's list is TBA, and Lagunitas, so far, has Little Sumpin Wild scheduled.

On Friday, October 15, the Saison Du Buff Menage A Trois event is scheduled, which will feature all three inceptions of the collaboration beer from Dogfish Head, Stone, and Victory.

Much more events are planned, so check out Baltimore Beer Week's site for further details.

Baltimore Beer Week - Dogfight II Event

2010-09-15T15:07:00.003-04:00

Baltimore Beer Week is getting closer, and as such, more events are being unveiled. The latest happening to be announced is the second Dogfight event. On Friday, October 8 beginning at 5:00 p.m., Victoria Gastro Pub patrons can create their own taste test by pitting Dogfish Head and Flying Dog beers against each other. Eight styles of beer will be tapped as well as a firkin to kick off the week celebrating beer and Baltimore. The pub introduced this event during American Craft Beer Week, and it proved such a success that they had to bring it back for this epic Baltimore event. Stay tuned for more BBW info!

On another note, Alewife, the new kid on the beer bar block, will open tomorrow (Sept. 16) at 4:00 p.m. You can make reservations on Opentable (smart move, Alewife proprietors!), and the menu is up on the establishment's website. It's in a great location, and the buzz around this new beer bar is great.

Baltimore Beer Week

2010-08-31T21:50:00.004-04:00

Baltimore Beer Week (BBW) is just around the corner. Area bars and brewers are preparing with preview events, such Alonso's Flying Dog night on August 31. So far, a handful of BBW events have been scheduled, including the kick off on Thursday, October 7 and the festival on Sunday, October 17. Maryland's annual Oktoberfest will be tied into the week-long celebration of beer, and Heavy Seas will pair their wonderful selection of brews with the blues. Sponsors (so far) include Flying Dog, Dogfish Head, Victoria Gastro Pub, Magic Hat, Max's Taphouse, and Sierra Nevada.

Although, it is not a BBW event, Stone Brewing will hit Baltimore on its national tour. Greg Koch will be bringing 40 Stone beers to Charm City. This will be the most Stone beers on tap at one time, so Stone fans (and really craft beer fans in general) will be fortunate to sample some of Stone's finest. The event will be at the new Alewife & more details will be forthcoming.

DC Beer Week - Churchkey

2010-08-27T16:04:00.007-04:00

This week is Beer Week in D.C., and the events abound all over the city each night. It is clear that D.C. is embracing its craft beer community. One not-to-miss place for any beer event is Churchkey in the Logan Square neighborhood.

My drinking buddy and I headed down to the nation's capital for the Victory cask night. Three casks were offered along with free glassware. Hop Wallop, Uncle Teddy's Bitter, and Hop Devil were tapped at 6:00 p.m., just as the bar started to fill up. We immediately snatched up some Hop Wallop, and the cask version of this beer accentuates the lovely bitterness in this beer. The aroma of nearly pure hops is intense and inviting.

Uncle Teddy's Bitter is a light English bitter. It pours golden, nearly amber, and the aroma is butterscotch, toffee, caramel, and some earthiness. While this isn't my first choice for a beer in terms of style, it was a nice beer for a warm summer D.C. evening.

Churchkey offers tasting portions (4 oz.), which allowed me to try a few beers. I tried Rogue John John Hazelnut Brown Nectar, Sierra Nevada Tumbler, and Coronado Idiot IPA. More on those in a bit...

Great Divide's 16th Anniversary Double IPA

2010-08-22T18:04:00.004-04:00

I finally put Great Divide's 16th Anniversary Double IPA in the fridge last night. I had been looking forward to trying this beer since I purchased it last month. It certainly did not disappoint.

It poured a golden amber color, and the aroma popped out of the class immediately. The complex combination of smells includes caramel, wood (possibly oak), molasses, malt, and pine. There was a depth even to the aroma.

Simply, this double IPA tastes like fall. As it slowly fills your mouth and throat, you can envision pumpkin pie and even smell allspice. The warm from the alcohol is like a warm autumn breeze. The spiciness combined with the hops and underscored by caramel produce a full-bodied, well-rounded ale. I was surprised that the beer was not as thick as I anticipated. The hops and spice coat the tongue like a blanket, but the finish is not overly bitter or obnoxious.

I'm looking forward to having this ale again once the leaves begin to change, the air cools a bit, and the football season is fully underway.

Table Fifty-Two - Chicago

2010-08-22T08:00:00.001-04:00

Over the July 4th weekend, I had the opportunity to finally visit Art Smith's Chicago restaurant, Table Fifty-Two. The small, quaint Southern cuisine establishment lived up the hype.

To begin, we were offered goat cheese biscuits, a nice twist on the classic buttermilk biscuits of Southern food tradition. They were both creamy and flaky - a delightful way to kick off a great meal. We were also privileged to get deviled eggs, which were smooth and flavorful.

Smith has also gone the way of some other chefs - celebrity and non-celebrity alike - by featuring only craft beers on his menu. In fact, he has formed a relationship with the brewers at Munster, Indiana-based Three Floyds. This bodes well for the diner who enjoys pairing beer with food. I stuck with the hoppy Gumball throughout the evening because I simply could not conceive of switching to something else.

After receiving our beer, we ordered the fried green tomatoes, which featured hot sauce aioli, bacon, tomato jam & frisee. The crispy, tart tomatoes balanced effectively with the aioli, which offered a nice kick, and the bacon's saltiness and jam complemented each other well. The beer also accentuated the heat in the aioli, which was a lovely surprise. For my entree, I ordered one of the specials: red snapper with quinoa. The portion size was appropriate, and the snapper was cooked perfectly, flaky and moist. The meal seemed indulgent and decadent but was clandestinely healthy. We could not pass up the opportunity to try Smith's three-cheese mac. This side dish was creamy, tart, sharp, and simply delicious. (I could have easily ordered the mac and a beer and been happy!)

We chose not to order a dessert item; instead, our dessert came in the form of Art Smith himself. He was dining a few tables over, and he made the rounds after finishing his meal. We talked with him for a few minutes (longer than other guests it seemed), and we discussed his beer partnership with Three Floyds, which is in its infancy/toddler stages it appears. He was delightful and charming - much like his food.

I look forward to dining at Art and Soul in D.C. in the very near future. If I'm lucky, Smith will be there!

Judges Bench and the Big A

2010-08-21T11:38:00.006-04:00

Once again, Judges Bench brings the great beer selection. I recently had the chance to try Smuttynose's Big A, which is an imperial IPA/American double IPA. This beer is part of the brewery's Big Beer series. This beer doesn't disappoint in the hops category. The aroma is citrus and a hint of pine - the hops come through loud and clear. The taste is strong, and in the finish, the hops coat the tongue, leaving a bitter/piney taste that rings nicely on the palate. There is a thickness to this beer that helps keep those hops on the tongue for a while. It would pair well with spicy food, though I had the tasty Judges Bench burger with it. I look forward to having this again; however, I just checked the Judges Bench draft list and Southern Tier 2XIPA is on tap ...

American Craft Beer Week Continued...

2010-08-18T21:14:00.008-04:00

Following the epic beer drinking at Max's to kick off American Craft Beer Week (ACBW), my drinking buddy and I headed to Victoria Gastro Pub (on 5/20), Alonso's (on 5/21) and Judge's Bench (on 5/23).

At Victoria, I took advantage of their flight option and selected a variety of summer-ish beers: Ommegang Tripel, Saranac Summerbrew, Saranac Imperial IPA, Saranac Pale Ale, and Southern Tier Heavy Weizen. Of the five beers, the Southern Tier and the IPA stood out. Saranac is typically hit or miss for me, and I feel Ommegang is a fairly good "go-to" beer. Saranac's Summerbrew was rather unimpressive because it lacked the light, citrusy flavors that are balanced with hop and malt, which, for me, are signatures of a summer beer. This lager sat rather blandly on the tongue. It may have been because I am not a lager fan (rarely, I'll find a lager that I enjoy). And, the Saranac Pale Ale simply lacked the hops, but, again, I like my beers extra hoppy. However, the Imperial IPA did satisfy my hops craving. The mix of ten different hops and ten different malts were blended effectively. Southern Tier's Heavy Weizen was a refreshing, crisp unfiltered wheat ale; it is a great summer beer.

Alonso's was a short visit. Nonetheless, I was able to try the featured firkin, which was Stillwater's Stateside Saison. This brewery has a few saison-style beers that Alonso's has on tap on a fairly regular basis. This firkin was crisp and great for a warm May early evening. My second selection from Alonso's small but fairly dynamic tap list was a good "go-to" beer: Great Divide's Titan IPA. This IPA, in many ways, represents a classic IPA; it's not extremely hoppy, but instead has a nice balance of hops and malt with a lovely hop aroma. The finish is a pleasant sharpness.

To conclude ACBW, we headed to Judge's Bench, which is a little bar in Ellicott City "where everybody knows your name." Judge's Bench never fails to deliver a solid tap list with good variety. This time was no different. I sampled Avery Samaels, Boulder Flashback, Allagash Victoria Ale, Evolution Lot 3 IPA, and Great Divide Collette. None of the beers disappointed. I have liked each beer that I have tried from the Boulder-based Avery Brewery. Avery Samaels was a good beer but not one for my palate. It is an extra strong English style ale that was aged in oak barrel. It has a rich caramelly taste and the malt certainly trumps the hops in this beer. And, this combination of flavors is not my cup of tea (or pint of beer); however, it was well-crafted beer. I have had Flashback, Collette, and Lot 3 before but wanted to try them again. Allagash is another brewery that, for me, can do no wrong. The Victoria Ale, a Belgian-style ale, simply reinforced this belief. The brewery added chardonnay grapes to the ale and you can certainly taste the fruit, but it doesn't overpower the lovely hops and subtle malt flavors.

All in all, ACBW was a great chance to sample new beers and indulge in great stand-bys. Fortunately, I don't have to wait for the annual event to get some excellent beers - Baltimore possesses some wonderful beer bars.

American Craft Beer Week

2010-08-17T13:20:00.008-04:00

American Craft Beer Week (ACBW) is like Christmas and New Year's rolled into one for beer geeks. It is even better when you live in a great beer city such as Baltimore. We are fortunate enough to have some excellent beer bars and gastro pubs. ACBW was celebrated from May 17-23.

To kick off the festivities, my beer buddy and I began at Max's Taphouse, perhaps Baltimore's premier beer bar (they boast 100 taps). Max's offers tasting sizes as well as the full pour size. The tasting size portions were perfect for ABCW because I was able to try a range of beers. Local brewery Brewer's Art was featured on the extensive tap list, and I sampled their Charm City Sour Cherry, Taurus, and Tiny Tim. Brewer's Art specializes in Belgian beers, and they tend to experiment a bit (not to the extent of Dogfish Head, for example). The Charm City Sour Cherry is an ale with a rich red color and a lovely tart finish. I'm not a fan of dramatically fruity beers, and fortunately, this sour cherry didn't overemphasize the cherry; rather, there was nice balance of flavors. Tiny Tim was an interesting Belgian strong pale ale with rosemary and hibiscus notes. While this was an interesting ale, I think I have been spoiled in the herb-infused beer department by Saison du Buff (the Dogfish Head - Stone - Victory collaboration beer).

Next, I tried Troegs Scratch #29, which is a Belgian IPA. This was a great find because it is only brewed once. The golden color is enticing, and the hints of citrus and grassiness are a welcomed mix on the palate. This beer showcases Troegs strengths, I believe, and stands out as one of their better beers. To follow-up, I tried a beer from one of my favorite breweries: Southern Tier. I have had many beers from Southern Tier, including Gemini that I sampled at Max's. Gemini is a limited release imperial blended ale, and the brewers combine two Southern Tier mainstays: Hoppe Imperial Extra Pale Ale and Unearthly Imperial IPA, which are two excellent ales. If you liked hoppy beers as I do, Gemini is a hoppy winner.

After the very yummy Gemini, it was on to Harpoon's Single Hop ESB, which is part of their 100 barrel series. I'm typically not a fan of English bitter ales, and this is a strong bitter ale. The color was bright amber and the taste embodied what strong bitters should have - woody, malty, and hints of citrus (of course, not all bitters have the citrus notes). It was a solid strong ale; however, it played second fiddle to the Gemini. Next up were two quite different Victory beers: Citra and Braumeister Pils - Saaz. Citra is a pale ale with a solid mix of malt and hops with hints of lemon. The color reflects the citrus nature of the beer - it has bright yellow color with tints of orange. The Braumeister Pils is a classic pilsner, with a golden hue and crisp taste. Both Victory beers did not disappoint.

To cap off the evening, I sampled Bear Republic's Nor'Cal, which is an American pale ale, and Harpoon's Leviathan Imperial IPA. The Nor'Cal is a tasty blend of hops and citrus with an undercurrent of malt rounding out the taste. It is a rich copper color and finishes nicely. Harpoon is usually hit or miss for me, but the Leviathan was a solid imperial IPA (or double IPA). As I mentioned, the more hops, the better for me, and Leviathan brought the hops. It is not my favorite double IPA (right now, Southern Tier's 2XIPA holds the top spot for me), but I wouldn't turn it down.

Max's consistently has a great selection of draft and cask beers, and they also put on some great special beer events. Next stop during the ACBW adventure: Victoria Gastro Pub!

So far behind...so distracted

2010-08-16T15:30:00.002-04:00

I have been quite the slacker as of late. I have many ideas tumbling around in my head that I want to post. I just need to sort them out and get them on paper - or screen as it were. Hopefully, beer won't distract me too much...as it has been doing this summer.

Food and Beer Pair Up Again: The New Dogfish Head Collaboration

2010-02-20T16:18:00.005-05:00

More exciting news from the food and beer worlds landed last week. Four brewers will join forces with the Italian cuisine juggernaut partnership of Mario Batali and the Bastianichs as well as Eataly to create a restaurant that highlights pairings between food and beer as well as a rooftop brewery-pub. Teo Musso, brewmaster of Birrificio Le Baladan, Leonardo Di Vincenzo of Birra del Borgo, Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head, and Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River Brewing are the four brewers who will be collaborating on this exciting project (click here for more detailed information).

The location has been determined: 200 5th Avenue, with the eatery on the first floor and the brewery-pub on the rooftop with views of the Empire State Building & Madison Square Park.

This joint effort reflects the growing connection between the food and craft beer industries. James Beard Award-winning chef Rick Bayless is in talks with Chicago brewery Goose Island to develop some craft brews. In June, Washington D.C. plays host to a craft beer and food pairing event, which features tastings and educational salons. And across the country, we see more brewer's dinners popping up at local restaurants and pubs. (Victoria Gastro Pub, for example, has already released their schedule for wine and beer dinners for the year.)

This latest collaboration, with an emphasis on Italian food and beer pairings, will certainly be an adventure and will also hopefully inspire other such partnerships.

My Battle with Flank Steak

2010-02-15T13:38:00.008-05:00

Flank steak and I have a storied history. It's a great, easy go-to meat for a quick dinner. I like its affordability, and Fresh Market always seems to carry a quality Hereford steak. Flank steak can make a great carne asada taco, and it holds marinade really well. But cooking this cut can be tricky. Ideally, you want to end up with medium-rare finish, but one extra minute on the grill can change a juicy steak to a brick with pretty grill marks.

During the recent snow storm, I had another go-round with flank steak. I created a simple marinade (white wine vinegar, cilantro, ground chipotle, garlic, onion, salt, and extra virgin olive oil) and grilled the steak. And once again, the steak tested me. 4 minutes on one side and 5 minutes (oops) on the other side on rather high heat created a fairly good steak. Or so I thought. That extra minute pushed the steak from a juicy medium rare to medium well, which for a flank steak is too tough. The sauce I made to go along with the steak was the highlight: a chipotle-mustard dipping sauce (Dijon mustard, stone ground mustard, ground chipotle, and a splash of water) inspired by a Bobby Flay recipe .

My battle with the flank steak continues. Next time, I just need to pay more attention.

Victoria Gastro Pub, Columbia, MD

2010-02-09T11:55:00.004-05:00

I've dined at Victoria Gastro Pub a few times but am becoming more of a fan after experiencing Beer Club Night. Every Monday evening, patrons can sample a selection of beers, on tap, from a particular brewery. So far I have attended Beer Club Night for Sierra Nevada and Oskar Blues. (I was unable to go on Great Divide night; my body needed to recover from the Cincinnati Beer Fest.) The gastro pub offers different portion sizes including tasting sizes (4 oz), which is a great way to not only expose guests to a variety of beers but also an excellent incentive to return for more beer nights.

And, Victoria features hard-to-find beers on these evenings as well. For example, the collaboration beer from Sierra Nevada & Dogfish Head - Life and Limb - was spotlighted for Sierra Nevada night, along with Glissade, Harvest Wet Hop, Anniversary Ale, and Limb and Life. It is interesting to note that the Sierra Nevada flagship beer, the Pale Ale, was not on tap. Victoria seems to strive for featuring the more elusive draft beers, which will undoubtedly attract beer aficionados and newbies alike. On the same evening that Sierra Nevada was the featured brewery, other draft beers included Stone B.A.S.H.A.H, Goose Island Bourbon County Stout, Stone Imperial Russian Stout '07, Dogfish Head Old School Barleywine, and Great Divide Old Ruffian Barleywine, among others.

The Oskar Blues Beer Club Night was just as fun as the Sierra Nevada evening. Oskar Blues cans their beers, so having them on draft is tasty but takes the fun out of it in some respects. I tried the Gordon, a double IPA, and the Old Chub, a Scottish ale. I also sampled the Ten Fidy, which is an imperial stout (I'm not a big fan of stouts so I went with the smaller size). I enjoyed the Gordon; it was hoppy with a clean finish. The Old Chub was also flavorful; the color of this beer stood out the most - it was a rich, dark leather brown hue.

Upcoming beer nights include Abita (for Fat Tuesday), 21st Amendment, Flying Dog, local brewery Clipper City, Dogfish Head, Delerium, and Victory. Victoria Gastro Pub also hosts tasting dinners, which are centered around either wine or beer. Last month, they hosted a Stags' Leap wine dinner, and coming up in April, Rogue will be the featured beer for a tasting dinner. Southern Tier, Dogfish Head, and Stone dinners are also scheduled for later in the year.

The food at Victoria Gastro Pub is fairly good. The duck fat fries are a personal favorite, and they often feature seasonal options, such as oysters and mussels. They have a few small plates, but their sandwiches and entrees are their best bets. I've enjoyed the American dip sandwich, which is Creekstone Farms angus ribeye, Vermont cheddar, horseradish sauce, carmelized onions, and porter beef jus. The fish and chips has been a hit with my dining companions in the past; it is Allagash White Beer battered cod with crab remoullade. The portion sizes are perfect, and it is nice to see another restaurant use local ingredients. The pub posts an updated menu each month along with its brunch, drink, and specialty menus on its website.

I'm looking forward to the Fat Tuesday Beer Club Night with six Abita beers on tap (Jockamo IPA, Andy Gator, Purple Haze, Turbo Dog, Abita Amber, & Mardi Gras Bock), live music, and the food includes gumbo & oyster po'boy sandwiches. At some point, I'd also like to try the pomegranate honey mustard glazed cornish game hen with fennel, sausage, sage & walnut stuffing and haricot verts. So far, Victoria Gastro Pub has made it into my restaurant rotation, alongside Woodberry Kitchen.

Cincinnati Winter Beer Fest

2010-02-01T16:31:00.010-05:00

On January 30, the Hyatt Regency Cincinnati hosted a few hundred fellow beer aficionados for an evening of beer exploration and adventure. The event appeared to be larger than the organizers anticipated because they chose to open the doors a hour earlier than scheduled for the VIPs.

Despite the early chaos, the selection of beers was fairly impressive. I decided to overlook the presence of Coors, Sam Adams, Stella Artois, and Hoegaarden and focus on some of the specialty beers highlighted for the event. The VIP section had a selection of beers unavailable to other patrons. I enjoyed two IPAs from Brew Dog, the Scottish brewery: Punk and Hard Core. Both beers were hoppy with a nice bitter finish. Hard Core stood out because it seemed a little more well-rounded than the Punk. The other selection from the VIP room that I sampled was Hoppin' Frog's Meaner Manalishi Double IPA. This crisp, smooth beer was a nice compliment to the Brew Dog beers. Its hoppiness lingers for a while, which was a nice way to end the mini-tour in the VIP room. The Akron, Ohio-based brewery showcased some of its best beers at the Cincy Winter Beer Fest with this double IPA as the highlight.

One of the beers that I was most looking for to was Bell's Hopslam. Unfortunately, it ran out rather quickly, and we missed it. At least, I've had the opportunity to taste it in the past. Despite that small disappointment, there were other wonderful beers waiting to be sampled. Highlights included Rogue Mogul Madness Ale, Stone Ruination, Founders Double Trouble, and Southern Tier's Phin & Matt. (Southern Tier also spotlighted Unearthly Imperial IPA, but I had this beer the prior evening at Nicholson's. It was the bar's featured cask.)

I'm a fan of Green Flash Brewery from San Diego and enjoyed their Imperial IPA & Hop Head. I also had IPAs from Flying Dog and Avery, which were both lovely. While the majority of the beers that I sampled were pleasant, one beer did not live up to expectations: Left Hand's 400 Pound Monkey. This IPA tasted rather unbalanced and had a rather foul (skunked) finish. I was only able to finish about half of my tasting portion before needing to dispose of it.

Overall, the Cincinnati Beer Fest did not disappoint. Towards the end of the evening, it became rather crowded and some of the more coveted beers had run out. The extra few dollars spent on the VIP tickets was well worth it.

On deck: the Belgium beer fest at Max's Taproom.

Churchkey, D.C.

2009-12-16T14:31:00.004-05:00

Disclaimer: this is not about the food but about the beer.

While Churchkey does have a lovely menu, it is the beer that draws patrons. They add new casks & draft beers on a regular basis and keep their customers apprised of these changes via Twitter and the CK blog. The draft menu is both overwhelming and educational; CK lists the beers based on taste/flavor (crisp, hop, fruit & spice, tart & funky, for example). And, they provide the usual brewer and ABV information, but they also add brewing temperature and the type of glass in which the beer is served. Also, CK offers both a full portion and a 4 ounce tasting size, which is wonderful for trying new beers.

The two beers that I sampled, Hop Head Red Ale from Green Flash Brewing Company and the Avery India Pale Ale from Avery Brewing Company, were both hoppy and bold. (Though, I did prefer the Hope Head Red Ale.) My drinking 'buddy' discovered Ruination from Stone Brewing Company, and I must say that this was my favorite beer of the evening (I had to sneak a taste). She prefers stouts and porters, so she tried Bell's Cherry Stout, which she said was not all cherry but rather balanced.

The food menu at CK is small but has some fun options, such as tater tots (which I ordered), mac & cheese sticks, & disco fries (cheese & sausage gravy). Their whimsical take on traditional bar food adds to the fun (and crowded - it's a very popular establishment) atmosphere.

We were not able to sample as many beers as we would have liked (dinner reservations at Georgia Brown's cut our tasting adventure short), but this is just another reason to return to Churchkey.

Spotted Pig, NYC

2009-12-05T22:16:00.005-05:00

The Spotted Pig was not what I expected. My friend and I visited the West Village hot spot after seeing Carrie Fisher's one woman show Wishful Drinking. We decided to eat early because we knew trying to get a table in the small restaurant would be difficult on a Saturday evening (no reservations taken). However, at 5:00 p.m., we fell into the menu abyss--the time between their lunch and dinner servings. As such, chef April Bloomfield offers a limited menu to accommodate early diners.

Limited menu or not, the food is fantastic. My dining companion and I began with the deviled eggs. Typically, I would never select these off of a party tray let alone at a restaurant. However, these deviled eggs were seasoned well - a lovely balance of smoky paprika and salt. We then ordered the burger. They were perfected cooked and adorned with Roquefort cheese. It was simple and utterly perfect. However, I must say that the shoestring fries with rosemary and garlic were equally as heavenly. The beer selection is small but excellent - a nice range of ales, stouts, and porters.

The space is what I was not expecting. The tables are close together and seating is tight. For the regulars, I'm sure it feels cozy and homey; however, for a first-timer, it took some adjusting. I suspect on my next visit I'll be more prepared. And there will certainly be a next visit. I must try Bloomfield's grilled quail with roasted trevise & wild mushrooms or roasted striped bass with mashed potatoes & parsley sauce.

Morimoto, NYC

2009-09-02T14:43:00.002-04:00

"Oh finally"

Menu:

Octopus carpaccio
Pork gyoza
Roasted ocean trout with turnip, miso, truffle, and crispy prosciutto
Warm chocolate cake with whiskey caramel & popcorn ice cream

I made it to Morimoto. The Japanese restaurant has been on my New York must-eat list for a while now. I was finally able to have the Morimoto experience as my last hurrah before heading back to campus for the fall semester.

The ambiance is contemporary with clean lines and a very sparse color palate but at the same time warm. It suggests trendy with a blend of hip New York and classy Japanese. My dining companion and I took several moments to simply absorb the atmosphere of the establishment before delving into the menu.

We began with the octopus carpaccio, which was lightly flavored with hot oil (thai chiles, or even jalapenos, I suspect, were infused into the oil) but still allowed the octopus to speak for itself. We were both initially apprehensive about trying the octopus because of prior sketchy experiences with the sea creature. However, Morimoto's spin on carpaccio eliminated all apprehensions as we thoroughly enjoyed this flavorful, delicate, and subtle dish.

A pork gyoza followed, and this dumpling was served as one large portion rather than in the traditional smaller size. The saucer-shaped crust that sat atop the dumpling was flaky and complemented the chewy texture of the dumpling itself quite well. The pork was seasoned with balance and did not overpower the meat.

For my entree, I chose the roasted ocean trout, and I selected this dish for two specific reasons: 1) I enjoy trout - simple enough, and 2) the accompanying flavors intrigued me and seemed to reflect Morimoto's blending of unusual flavors to create an entirely new eating experience. The combination of the turnips, miso, and truffle accented the hint of sea salt in the fish, and the crispy prosciutto garnishing the top of the fillet added a lovely texture juxtaposition to the soft, flaky trout.

To end our meal, we shared the warm chocolate cake with whiskey caramel and popcorn ice cream. The dessert was both homey and whimsical, made more so by the scattering of caramel popcorn on the plate. While the cake was not a dessert I expected from this particular restaurant, the unique and fun flavor combinations were quite reflective of Chef Morimoto's culinary sensibilities (much like the trout).

After waiting a while to have the Morimoto experience, I can definitely say that it was worth the wait.

Two additional notes:
1) The cocktails offered are excellent & Morimoto provides a wonderful selection of sake as well.
2) Don't miss the bathrooms - they are fantastic.

Summer in Chicago: Frontera Grill, MK, and Green Zebra

2009-06-29T20:54:00.010-04:00

(Of course, we can't forget the famous Taste of Chicago, too!)

While visiting my home town this summer, I had another opportunity to experience Chicago's gastronomical offerings. Frontera Grill, MK, and Green Zebra (as well as the Taste) were on my culinary agenda.

Some friends and I began at Frontera Grill for lunch before heading off into a throng of people at Pride Fest. I believe that one can never go wrong at either Frontera Grill or Topolobampo; Rick Bayless never seems to disappoint. We began with Frontera's fantastic margaritas and guacamole. I enjoy the avocado dish here because it is both creamy and balanced perfectly - one flavor does not overpower the others, which can often happen with guacamole. My lunch consisted simply of the duck tacos: Gunthrop duck marinated with red-chile adobo. The traditional Mexican street food gets the Bayless spin with tender duck and a smoky marinade that does not trump the subtle flavors of the duck. One of my dining companions selected the enchiladas de mole poblano and seemed to be in heaven.

Later, my sister and I were able to finally make it to MK. We had been wanting to hit Michael Kornick's famous contemporary Italian-French fusion restaurant for quite some time. Executive Chef Erick Williams continues the tradition established by Kornick and offers a variety of excellent local ingredients on his menu. In addition to Chef Williams' fantastic creations, MK offers an extensive wine and cocktail menu that should not be missed. And, the atmosphere is warm and contemporary without being overly pretentious.

The sommelier was friendly and did not speak down to us, which was refreshing. She recommended a beautiful Burgundy that paired well with each course. I began with tuna escolar: crudo of white tuna, charred scallions, sea beans, pickled ginger, and white soy. This well-plated dish was a wonderful opening to a fantastic meal; it embodied summer - clean and fresh flavors. A warm salad of porcini mushrooms, arugula, and parmigiano reggiano followed, and this simple salad was the right blend of textures and light but hearty flavors. (I have since made efforts to recreate this salad at home.) My entree was a featured dish of the evening: grilled bison ribeye with baby artichokes, heirloom carrots, vidalia onions, and pommery mustard. Each component on the plate blended effortlessly together while still retaining its individuality. The ribeye was cooked to my exact specifications and was an excellent cut of meat. To finish the meal, I opted for a strawberry dark chocolate dessert: macerated farmers' market strawberries, strawberry syrup, dark chocolate creameux, and a kumquat and hazelnut emulsion. Again, quintessential summer flavors jumped off the plate with this dessert, and it was a satisfying conclusion to a delicious meal.

My final meal was taken at Green Zebra - a small vegetarian restaurant on the city's near west side. Executive Chef and owner Shawn McClain uses seasonal and local ingredients that reflect the range of wonderful produce and products available in the Midwest. I began with a staple summer dish (at least in my book) - cucumber salad. This clean and crisp salad was a nice complement to the sweet onion and garlic soup that followed. The soup was fit for any garlic fan, and I savored every bite - it was divine. The third course was a goat cheese risotto, which was served in the perfect portion size for such a dish and highlighted the tartness of the cheese and creaminess of the rice. A poached egg with smoked potato puree and country sourdough followed and rounded out the savory portion of the meal. The Spence Farm egg was poached wonderfully, and the dish fell wonderfully into the comfort food category. To conclude the meal, a dining companion and I shared the dessert special: a s'more with homemade marshmallows and graham crackers featuring dark chocolate. The whimsical dessert recalled the fun of sitting around a fire at camp but with an adult twist. The dark chocolate cut into the sweetness of marshmallow, creating a nice balance of flavors. I've never been disappointed at Green Zebra, and this dining experience was certainly no exception. I was also able to expose some friends to Chef McClain's cuisine, and I think he has some new converts.

A quick note about the The Taste of Chicago: I love the Taste. I enjoy the smells and the variety of foods available (I'm not a fan of the crowds, but you take the good with the bad, I suppose). And more of the vendors this year moved towards offering sample sizes of some of their offerings, which is a smart move for those of us who want to try many different foods but do not want full portions. Unfortunately, this year I did not have as much time as I would have liked because I had to catch a plane. But, I did embark on a 'power' tour of the Taste. From Vee Vee's (a favorite), I sampled the jerk chicken and red beans and rice; Tuscany's toasted ravioli was mediocre at best; the carne asada tacos from Los Dos Laredos were passable; Sweet Baby Ray's bbq rib sandwich (the mini size) hit the spot; the beignets from Lagniappe Creole-Cajun Joynt could not compete with those from Cafe du Monde but were tasty; and the potato and cheese pierogi from Kasia's Deli highlighted - quite well - a dish from the cuisine of one of Chicago's most influential immigrant populations.

I can never get enough of the food from my native city,and I'm looking forward to my next culinary adventure in sweet home Chicago. First stop: Portillo's.

Dining Out: Pazo

2009-05-24T14:26:00.004-04:00

I finally made it to Pazo last night. A bit on the loud side in terms of ambiance, but overall, a solid dining experience. Our server was pleasant and attentive but not pushy or intrusive. The small plates options were plenty, and the cocktail menu reflected diverse and fairly inventive bartending.

To start, I had a cucumber gimlet (one of the specialty drinks on the aforementioned cocktail menu)- Hendrick's Gin, lime, and cucumber water. This drink may have been the highlight of the meal. It was refreshing, clean, and crisp. We ordered the croquettas and two salads - butter lettuce and sugar snap peas - to nibble on alongside our drinks. The lightly crisp crust of the croquettas were not oily and the filling was not mushy but creamy instead, which was a nice change given that I had a similar dish a few weeks earlier at a restaurant I will not name that was not successful. The two salads were quite different - the butter lettuce salad was complemented fairly well with crisp shallots & bacon, but the dressing (a creamy sherry bacon dressing) was a bit overwhelming. The sugar snap pea salad was perfect for the summer-like day we had. A hint of lemon and mint paired well with the fresh peas.

To follow our salads, we decided to try the goat cheese agnolotti with mushrooms and asparagus followed by scallops in a beurre blanc, homemade sausage, and herb crusted halibut. Of these dishes, the agnolotti and the halibut stood out. The pasta felt more like a winter dish, but, regardless, the goat cheese, mushrooms, and local asparagus in the brown butter sauce fused well into a cohesive dish. The herb crust on the fish did not take away from the taste of the halibut, which is always a risk when adding a crust to any fish. The sausage, on the other hand, was a bit on the bland side, and the scallops were overwhelmed by the sauce.

To cap off the evening, I selected the Meyer lemon granita, which was a perfect portion size and a delicious and refreshing way to end the meal. My dining buddy had the dessert special, which was a vanilla bean cake with local strawberries. Both desserts were more than satisfactory.

I would certainly give Pazo another go around and would like to work my way through the cocktail menu (ideally, not in one sitting). I would also like to try their seasonal menu for two and their classic Pazo menu for two.

For small plates in Charm City, Pazo is a good go-to dining option.

Preparing for ASFS

2009-05-15T16:48:00.003-04:00

I'm in the midst of writing my paper for the upcoming ASFS conference. I chose to write about my experiences teaching food literature in the English and Composition classrooms. Right now, my emphasis has been primarily on my English 203 course in which I used a range of food-focused texts and samples of programming from Food Network, PBS, and television (Seinfeld and Gilmore Girls) and film (Soul Food). Students wrote smaller writing assignments (in blog form) over the course of the semester and wrote in some of the different forms that we read. They needed to bring their critical eyes to texts and media that they may have otherwise not examined in such a way. At this point, I'm trying to convey all of this and much more in this paper. I haven't written a paper with a pedagogical angle before, so I'm in uncharted waters here. I'm uncertain as to how to structure such a paper, so I'm truly winging it at this point.

The process of putting ideas together for the paper has proven fruitful, however. I've been able to reflect on what worked and what didn't (which I hope to include in the paper). And, I've also been able to step back and assess how great the range of food writing is and how useful it can be not only in my dissertation but in the classroom as well. I knew this, of course, for the most part, but the variety available makes the idea of teaching this type of course again all that more exciting. And the television and film side to the discussion also adds more to the plate, with the new Julie and Julia movie coming out, the hints of diversity on the Food Network, the popularity of Top Chef et al, and the publication of the annual Best in Food Writing anthologies.

Hopefully, this paper will evolve successfully but at least the process has been helpful, which, with my writing, is not always the case.

This Just In: Watching What We Eat by Kathleen Collins

2009-05-07T19:24:00.002-04:00

I just received my copy of Watching What We Eat: The Evolution of Television Cooking Shows by Kathleen Collins (Continuum Press) and am looking forward to diving into it as soon as I can. What caught my eye about this book besides its overall subject, which fits seamlessly with my dissertation in a number of ways, is her chapter about gender and contemporary cooking programs. At first glance, Collins tackles Martha, Rachael, and Giada (no need for last names, we all know who they are!), which begs the questions, for me: where does Julia fit in and what about Paula Deen, Sara Moulton, Nigella Lawson, etc. (among other questions, of course)? I'm curious to read about someone else's take on this subject because I wonder how my perspectives will fit into this particular conversation. Also, Collins is a librarian and her work seems rooted in the popular culture mileu, so I'm also curious to see how this particular writer tackles this subject.

If anyone has already read this text, please share your thoughts.

Non-food-related post---Guiding Light

2009-04-30T23:27:00.004-04:00

So the longest running program in broadcast history has been canceled--Guiding Light (GL). I'm not a soap watcher today, but I was in the past (i.e. scheduling college courses around such shows as Days of Our Lives, Santa Barbara, Another World, General Hospital). Just as GL has shifted into a different filming module and become comfortable with it and just as two of its characters---Olivia (portrayed by the powerhouse Crystal Chappell) and Natalia (portrayed by newcomer and rising star Jessica Leccia)---are entering into a relationship that will break soap opera ground, CBS has canceled the program. (There are rumors that Lifetime will pick up the show to continue its storied run.)

The relationship between Olivia and Natalia, now better known simply as "Otalia," is a gesture towards what soaps once did really well---tell a love story. The writers and actors have built this relationship from the ground up, and in true soap opera fashion, these two women began on not-so-friendly terms. The evolution of their relationship from near-enemies to co-workers of sorts to close friends has seemed organic---thanks to excellent writers and talented actors. It's rare that you find such a storyline---regardless of labels---on television (daytime or otherwise). There is even speculation that "Otalia" could emerge as one of those famous "supercouples" of soap operas (ala Luke and Laura).

All My Children (AMC) tried to be the pioneer and did fairly well until they tossed Bianca and Reese under the bus. AMC had a chance to do what GL appears to be doing---giving the fans a true love story and breaking ground/making history in the process. But, they simply didn't. (In all fairness, Bianca and Reese are by no means the first gay or lesbian characters on daytime television, but Bianca was the first major character to sustain gay relationships---first with Maggie and then she and Reese eventually got married.)

Guiding Light, however, has a chance to do what AMC didn't/couldn't and even return to the 'golden' days of soaps when the epic love story rested at the core of the soap opera narrative. There is huge fan support for "Otalia" (i.e. message boards, fansites, blogs, youtube channels), and Chappell and Leccia seem to be very aware of the significance of their story and appear to embrace the 'fandom' surrounding their couple. Hopefully, this mutual desire among the actors and fans to see GL survive, along with this storyline, will help the program find a home somewhere else in t.v. land.

It's rare that t.v. viewers are treated to a good ole fashioned love story. I have missed these narratives, and when they are told with the grace, respect, and beauty like the "Otalia" coupling, they make television viewing a pleasurable experience (unlike, say, Grey's Anatomy, which simply grates on every last nerve---and I can't pinpoint if it's the acting, writing, or both). I'd much rather set my dvr for Guiding Light than flip on prime-time television to find my viewing limited to Donald Trump, Simon Cowell, and Charlie Sheen. (Unless 30 Rock is on then all bets are off.)

So far behind...

2009-04-08T16:20:00.002-04:00

I thought I'd have some over spring break to get caught up on my posts, but, alas, no such luck. Hopefully, I'll get to my "restaurants that matter" post, which is in response to a story in the April issue of Saveur.

Celebrity Chefs and Lesbian Visibility

2009-03-16T20:43:00.007-04:00

Cat Cora. Those two words probably generate a lovely image for most foodie lesbians. How can they not? She's a successful businessperson (CCQ in Costa Mesa, cookbooks, etc.), an Iron Chef, philanthropist (founder of Chefs for Humanity), and a mom of two (with two more on the way - she and partner Jen are both pregnant). With lesbian visibility in the entertainment often limited (Ellen & Portia, Rosie, Rachel Maddow, and...?) and/or problematic (Lohan, Katy Perry, Desperate Housewives, Grey's Anatomy, The View, The Tyra Banks Show...well, you see my point), attention needs to be paid to those outside of the entertainment industry.

Cora is a celebrity, yes, but she also has articulated her desire to simply get more people to cook for themselves, understand what they are eating, and how they can eat better (e.g. see her latest appearance on Oprah). She also has, simultaneously, 'normalized' the lesbian family. She discusses openly her goal of creating recipes for families, based on the meals she makes for her own family (she had a story in People two Thanksgivings ago featuring Jen and their two sons and how they prepare for and eat for the holiday). So this leads me to the question: is celebrity chef-dom the next bastion for positive lesbian representation?

Recently, AfterEllen.com profiled Virginia Willis, out author of Bon Appétit, Y'all: Recipes and Stories from Three Generations of Southern Cooking. She emphasizes gourmet Southern cooking and is in talks with three production companies for her own show. The Atlanta-based Willis brings a respectable resume to the table including work with Nathalie Dupree and Julia Child and earned her culinary education from L’Academie de Cuisine and Ecole de Cuisine LaVarenne. Not too shabby. She and partner Becky Minchew are active in the community as well, participating in the Atlanta Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier International and helping raise money for HIV/AIDS research. The Atlanta-Journal Constitution is also jumping on the bandwagon to contend that Willis will become the next celebrity chef. So what does this mean? Willis' contributions to the foodie world and her community illuminate the light of lesbian visibility outside the entertainment industry. We need more of this.

Cora and Willis can be placed alongside Maddow as those women who are offering a more realistic portrait of the various types of lesbians in this country. They are not representations of lesbians as we see on fictional television programming or in film. They are real women who are complex, flawed, and real - *gasp* just like everyone else. And as such, they challenge hegemonic gender and sexuality discourses, which is simultaneously subversive and complicated.

One glaring issue here: the absence of racial diversity. Who will be next to further expand lesbian visibility in a positive way? Someone from foodie-land perhaps? It seems like this facet of our culture allows for a great deal of lesbian visibility and can serve as an example for other industries/sub-cultures. The Slow Food Movement is one example in a long line of many of how the culinary world is a leader for positive change, and now, we can add lesbian visibility to that growing list.

UPDATE: I just happened upon a nice story about out chef Elizabeth Falkner. She has appeared on a number of Food Network programs, including Iron Chef as Cat Cora's former sous chef. Check out the brief overview of Falkner's career.

Slow Money on ATC

2009-03-12T17:12:00.003-04:00

I just heard a story today on NPR's "All Things Considered" about the Slow Money movement. Woody Tasch (author of Inquiries into the Nature of Slow Money) provided some context for the story, which focused on a New York dairy farmer who was looking to his customers for a loan to build a milk processing center in his barn. Tasch discussed the problematic nature of America's (and by extension Western) investment philosophies and approaches ("velocity" etc.), and he gestured towards the Slow Food movement in the process. The story continued by introducing the Slow Money Alliance, which convenes " Slow Money Institutes, publishing books and white papers, and incubating new funding intermediaries," according to the organization's website. The idea is to invest in green companies with the goals of "preservation and restoration" at the fore.

For individuals who are scared off by the stock market at the moment and/or for those looking to invest in a more socially or environmentally conscious way, this Slow Money movement and the Slow Money Alliance seem like the way to go. It is challenging sometimes to find companies in which to invest (stocks) that adhere to particular ethical, social, and environmental standards as well as provide investors with attractive returns. Simply, Tasch and the Alliance are asking us to engage in a paradigm shift—to move beyond this fast growth, risky approach to investments.

I’m not surprised, then, that the Slow Food movement has provided a model for such investment strategies. Our culinary practices often serve as entry points for change in areas beyond our everyday lives. With the current economic downturn, for example, one of the first budget concerns individuals and families address is food. Everyone from celebrity chefs (i.e. Cat Cora, Tyler Florence, and Curtis Stone on Oprah yesterday) to bloggers to local markets is promoting budget-conscious methods for Americans to reduce their food budgets while still producing healthy and flavorful meals.

At this point, I’m considering this Slow Food Alliance as a possible investment opportunity. The idea of putting some of my money into local businesses that promote a green way of living appeals to the foodie in me, and I know I can go to sleep at night feeling good about helping local farmers produce (for example). Getting some return on my investment is just icing on the cake.

WWJD: What Would Julia Do?

2009-03-09T21:39:00.006-04:00

[This seems to be an eternal question.]

I just received the latest Williams-Sonoma catalog, and as I flipped through the glossy pages, I wondered what Julia Child would think of the offerings from this retailer and others like it. (Sidebar: Julia is at the forefront of my thoughts these days, more so than usual, because of her appearance in a forthcoming dissertation chapter.) She loved gadgets and her kitchen at the National Museum of American History in D.C. reflects this hobby of collecting such kitchen gear. Would she want today's kitchen tools and devices--would she find places on the pegboard for them to display in her kitchen?

An avocado slicer. An asparagus peeler. A vegetable chop. Are these the types of gadgets that would find their way into the kitchen of a culinary icon? My gut says no - at least not to use on a regular basis: Julia took pleasure in the process just as much as the product; she reveled in getting her hands a little dirty. Sure, she enjoyed the playful aspects of many kitchen tools and perhaps she was more fascinated with the technological side of the gadgets than what they could actually do in the kitchen. But, Julia was an educator and prided herself on being a teacher first and foremost; her career centered and thrived on sharing her culinary knowledge with generations of foodies.

Rather than finding shortcuts for every task, I suspect Julia would ask us to take the time to feel the cool asparagus in our hands and allow ourselves to simply appreciate this vegetable's textures. And then, instead of using the latest shortcut device, she would want us to use a good old fashioned vegetable peeler to indulge in altering the vegetable. I also imagine she would respond similarly to the vegetable chop tool, which has been around for a bit now. Onions, garlic, mushrooms, strawberries, and mangoes differ greatly beyond the obvious, especially when it comes to preparing these various fruits and vegetables. Dicing an onion possesses a starkly different feel than slicing mushrooms. As a teacher, I bet Julia would want us to learn each different knife skill, to be aware of how a knife feels in our hands as we chop, slice, dice, julienne, etc., and to realize that each technique will help us become better chefs (and even helping us achieve meal preparation in a shorter amount of time, which seems to be what so many people want these days anyway).

Learning a technique - a process - and finding the beauty and art in each seems lost in many facets of our culinary practice these days, supplanted by quick, fast, easy. I have Twitter, IM, text messaging, and email for my quick-fast-easy fix; I want to linger over my cooking process and experience what Julia would have wanted me to experience--the soft, smooth, and peaceful movement of my chef's knife slicing through a cremini mushroom. The asparagus peeler or the vegetable chop may have found a home on Julia's kitchen pegboard but only to fulfill the desire of a collector rather than a professorial chef.

I think I will now routinely ask the question "What would Julia do" when confronted with life's most mundane and complex quandaries.

Eating on a Budget, According to Food Mags

2009-03-02T12:10:00.003-05:00

An article in today's New York Times prompted this little post. Upscale food magazines (Gourmet, Food & Wine, etc.) are including articles about eating on a budget (either at home or dining out). As a reader of these publications, I have noticed the inclusion of such stories but have not paid them too much attention. Why? Well, why wouldn't they incorporate such stories? More individuals interested in the culinary world diversify their reading habits as a result of the interwebs, so these publications need to attract readers via multiple avenues. Other outlets are capitalizing on the economic downturn (recession, mild depression - whatever we're calling it these days), so why wouldn't these magazines?

Another reason I perhaps have not chosen to highlight such articles is that I read other food publications that do foreground such budget meal planning (Everyday with Rachael Ray, Cook's Illustrated, etc.). I guess maybe I'm simply used to such areas of focus in food magazines. Regardless, these articles will work well for these particular magazines that are often seen by those outside the culinary universe as somewhat snobby, exclusive, and providing dining suggestions outside the realm of financial possibilities for much of the American population. Will this change a loyal reader's habits or change one's view of such a magazine that s/he has been reading for a while? Probably not. Will it attract new readers? Hopefully, and we can also hope more people will become interested in the expansive and complex American culinary culture.

Recent Dining Adventures: Valentine's Day Weekend in Philly

2009-02-27T10:52:00.010-05:00

Well, I couldn’t get into Morimoto or Vetri or Osteria, so I looked for plan B. Supper was a pleasant surprise and Ernesto’s proved to be a neighborhood gem. Pat’s, of course, is a must-do when in the City of Brotherly Love.

Supper: We lucked out and got a table directly next to the serving window of the kitchen where I had front row seats to Chef Mitch Prensky putting the finishing touches on his small plates and entrees. We bypassed the hors d’oeuvres and went straight for the Boston Bibb and Herb Salad, which came served with a side of moist and flavorful cornbread. The crisp bacon droplets did not overwhelm the buttery greens but instead provided a nice salty complement. The buttermilk dressing, which sounded heavy initially, lightly coated the bibb leaves and did not soak the salad.

Because I’ve been all about small plates for a few years now, K and I decided to share a couple of Chef Prensky’s smaller options: Red Wine Braised Short Rib (with bacon, mushrooms, onions & creamy polenta) and Stripped Bass (with rapini, peppers, potatoes and bagna cauda). The short rib fell off the bone and the subtle hints of red wine were ever-present with each bite. The polenta served as a nice accompaniment, but I would have been pleased simply with the rib and perhaps some simple beans as a side. However, I’m not complaining. The seafood was prepared well—the skin remained crispy while the meat lightly flaked onto the fork. The peppers provided a splash of spice but did not overpower the fish. While the menu is small, the dishes are varied, and Chef Prensky offers two entrée-sized dishes for those with a heartier appetite: a porterhouse and a shellfish pan roast.

For a sweet end to the evening, we shared the dense chocolate cake for dessert. Like the other dishes, the cake was the perfect portion size, especially given the intense, rich, and concentrated flavors. We needed to put a little muscle into carving bite-sized pieces of the cake—dense indeed.

Overall, Supper proved to certainly deserve its place in Philadelphia’s Top 50 restaurants list. The wine list appeared rather standard (nothing to write home about but satisfactory) and the bartender whipped up a mean Hendrick’s martini. Small plates, big flavors.

Ernesto’s: For some reason, I can never not get Prosciutto di Parma and melon when I see them appear on an Italian menu. So, ordering this sweet-savory combination to begin our Valentine’s Day meal at this quaint and intimate Rittenhouse Square family-owned restaurant was a must. As expected, the dish did not disappoint, neither did the atmosphere, which was perfect for a romantic evening. Our server allowed us to linger over each course without feeling ignored—always a delicate balance.

Neither K or I was in the mood for a heavy dish like Osso Buco or Cioppino, so we opted for simple pasta dishes. I know, pasta not heavy? However, we caught a glimpse of another patron’s bowl upon entering and witnessed the small portion size of pasta. As such, we knew our choices would not be food coma-inducing. The pasta special for the evening turned out to be a Fettuccine Bolognese, which I could not resist, and K selected the Bucatini all' Amatriciana. We swapped bowls midway through dining and enjoyed each other’s choice. The subtle flavors in both sauces complemented the homemade pastas perfectly and also allowed each of us to enjoy the textures of the pasta without being overwhelmed by too much sauce.

For dessert, I immediately craved Tiramisu; however, I was too late—they had run out. But, despite my disappointment, Ernesto’s offered Zuppa Inglese, which I had not had in ages. And, the light, airy dessert quickly erased my distress over the absence of Tiramisu.

Ernesto’s offered classic Italian dishes at affordable prices in a cozy atmosphere. My only concerns were the quite limited wine list and the charges for sharing/splitting a dish. Otherwise, Ernesto’s demonstrated its neighborhood gem-ness.

Pat's: To end our Philly weekend, we stopped at Pat’s on the way out of the city. Of course, the debate over what joint has the best cheesesteak is still raging—and will probably continue. (I’m simply offering my experience at one of the city’s renowned cheesesteak establishments.) Pat’s is located in South Philly and faces one of its competitors—Geno’s. Other residents swear by Cosmi’s, too. So again, the debate persists. We ordered two sandwiches without onions and with Cheese Whiz. Ordering cheese fries as a side seemed almost required, so we added this extra dose of lactose (and grease) to our order. Some brave souls enjoyed their sammies outside in the cold sun, but we couldn’t follow suit. Eating these delicious (and seemingly dangerous cheesesteaks) on the road somehow complemented the food itself. I was not hungry for a while after eating this Philly culinary staple—not surprisingly. Now, I just need to return to the city and compare!

To Boot Camp or Not to Boot Camp

2009-02-24T19:27:00.004-05:00

I had no idea how to start this blog except to simply write about what I’ve been mulling over lately with regards to the world of gastronomy.

I’ve never taken a culinary class, and I am thinking perhaps it is about time. And that thought led me to the entire business of culinary education in general. Besides the obvious - going to culinary school - our options, for those of us not inclined to change careers at the moment, are both various and limiting. I don’t know about you, but I do not have the financial resources to spend on a series of cooking school classes (especially in our current economic climate) nor the time to devote to a degree program. But, I would like to hone my (knife, sauce, etc.) skills, learn more about wine (in a structured environment), and/or bone up on regional/ethnic cuisines.

My first and, I’ll be honest, favorite choice is the Boot Camp program at the Culinary Institute of America. I’ve read the book - Culinary Boot Camp: Five Days of Basic Training at the Culinary Institute of America - and I have read (yes, cover to cover) the CIA’s The Professional Chef. I’m up for the challenge of the intensive five-day experience that is CIA Boot Camp. Of course, I could take some of their two-day or four-day boot camps as well. BBQ or Skill Development Boot Camp sound interesting, and both are two-day commitments. In the four-day category, Baking and Bistro are two options for which I’d be game. But, the five-day - oh, the five-day - experience appears the most tantalizing: Basic Training, Advanced Training, French Cuisine, and Gourmet Meals in Minutes (although, I think I’ve received a solid foundation in this department from Rach) are just a few options. Anyone want to fund a scholarship so I can attend? The price tag is about $2000 for the five-day. Unless I get a bonus in the near future, I will have to wait on this prospect.

As a community college instructor, I'm all for the continuing education track if I can find classes taught by pros. Local cooking schools are always an option (i.e. L'Academie de Cuisine). These "secondary" options are more financially accessible and perhaps a little less intense. They offer a range of classes (i.e different ethnic/regional cuisines, skills, grilling, pastry, etc.) and many of the classes are small in size (and as we know, class size has an impact on learning). The growing interest in culinary practice extending beyond self-proclaimed foodies allows for these institutions to reach a dynamic demographic and as more people take classes, they can offer more and (hopefully) charge less.

While these possibilities are viable and provide a structured learning environment, there are some unconventional options out there. Local foodie collectives are funding behind-the-scenes events at local restaurants where the executive chef might prepare a special menu for the guests and even conduct a Q & A about the dishes (Baltimore Foodies, for example, does some of these events). Wine pairings are often part of these fun evenings. Not only do you get to try some delicious cuisine (and wine) but you also get the intimate experience with the chef. These events also get those wholeheartedly interested in food and culinary practice a little insight into the business and prep side as well. What's missing, then? The technical instruction. But, perhaps pairing these foodie-type events with technical instruction could prove fruitful.

So where does that leave me? Unresolved, quite frankly. Maybe I'll move on to the other side of the desk, so to speak, and sign up for a course on Mediterranean cuisine (Cat Cora has somehow inspired me) at the local community college.